2020-2021 / QUAL0724-1

Knowledge of raw materials and control methods

Knowledge of ingredients : fats, surfactants, silicones, perfumes, polymers

Packaging materials

Substances of natural origin

Quality assurance, checking the quality of raw materials and end products, approving analytical methods, GMP and GLP

Duration

Knowledge of ingredients : fats, surfactants, silicones, perfumes, polymers : 50h Th
Packaging materials : 10h Th
Substances of natural origin : 15h Th
Quality assurance, checking the quality of raw materials and end products, approving analytical methods, GMP and GLP : 20h Th, 10h Pr

Number of credits

 Specialised master in dermopharmacy and cosmetology10 crédits 

Lecturer

Knowledge of ingredients : fats, surfactants, silicones, perfumes, polymers : Jonathan Goole, Alain Joncheray, Léon Marteaux, Hélène Mavar, Géraldine Piel
Packaging materials : Laurence Denis
Substances of natural origin : Michel Frederich, Caroline Strevigny
Quality assurance, checking the quality of raw materials and end products, approving analytical methods, GMP and GLP : Philippe Hubert, Roland Marini Djang'Eing'A

Language(s) of instruction

French language

Organisation and examination

Teaching in the first semester, review in January

Schedule

Schedule online

Units courses prerequisite and corequisite

Prerequisite or corequisite units are presented within each program

Learning unit contents

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Knowledge of ingredients : fats, surfactants, silicones, perfumes, polymers

1. General introduction 2. Surfactants used in cosmetic products 3. Aggregation and self-assembly of surfactants (micelles, liquid crystals, ...) 4. Surfactant applications

Substances of natural origin

Coming soon

Learning outcomes of the learning unit

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Knowledge of ingredients : fats, surfactants, silicones, perfumes, polymers

Surfactants are essential excipients for the formulation of cosmetics.
The objective of this teaching unit is to introduce the different classes of surfactants and their uses related to their physicochemical properties in the different categories of cosmetic products.

Substances of natural origin

Coming soon

Prerequisite knowledge and skills

Scientific vocabulary.
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Analytical chemistry.

Knowledge of ingredients : fats, surfactants, silicones, perfumes, polymers

Basic concepts in physico-chemistry and formulation

  • Introduction to formulation
  • Introduction to physico-chemistry

Planned learning activities and teaching methods

Knowledge of ingredients : fats, surfactants, silicones, perfumes, polymers

See below

Substances of natural origin

Lectures will be given at ULB and ULg, alternatively.

Mode of delivery (face to face, distance learning, hybrid learning)

Lecture, practical work, seminars.

Knowledge of ingredients : fats, surfactants, silicones, perfumes, polymers

Provision of audio Powers Points 
Organiztion of a Q&A session through Lifesize
Organization of a presentation session for personal work in person or via Lifesize depending on current health conditions. Participation to this session is compulsory.

Organisational adjustments related to the current health context

Knowledge of ingredients : fats, surfactants, silicones, perfumes, polymers

If due to the health situation, the MS examinations cannot be organized in person, the exam of the surfactants course will be organized in the form of a written report. Students will have 1 hour to analyze the surfactants present in cosmetic formulations. They will submit their report at the end of the allotted time to the email address: geraldine.piel@uliege.be
Any report not returned at the requested time will not be taken into account

Substances of natural origin

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Recommended or required readings

-   Powerpoint presented in the courses ; reference books
-   Physicochemical Principles of Pharmacy, AT Flornce and D. Attwood.
-   Formulating detergents and personal care products, L. Tai.
-   Formulations: in Cosmetics and personal care, T.F. Tadros.
-   An introduction to surfactants, T.F. Tadros.
-   Cosmetic Lipids and the Skin Barrier, Thomas Förster, Editor, Marcel Dekker (New York, USA), 2002.
-   Physical and Chemical Characteristics of Oils, Fats, and Waxes, David Firestone, Editor, 3rd ed., AOCS Press (Urbana, USA), 2013.
-   Unsaponifiable Matter in Plant Seed Oils, D. Fontanel, Springer-Verlag (Berlin Heidelberg, Germany), 2013
-   Revue: OCL (Oléagineux, Corps Gras Lipides / Oilseeds and fats, Crops and Lipids). 
-   Packaging Technology and Science, © John Wiley & Sons Ltd, Editors-in-Chief: David Shires, Diana Twede, Impact Factor: 1.292; ISI Journal Citation Reports © Ranking: 2015: 23/42 (Engineering Manufacturing), 66/124 (Food Science & Technology), Online ISSN: 1099-1522.
-   www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com 
-  The Chemistry of Fragrances - D.H.Pybus & C.S.Sell  -  Ed.RSC 1999.
-  Classification Officielle des Parfums et Terminologie - Ed. Société Françaises des Parfumeurs.
-  Site Internet IFRA (International Fragrance Association) www.ifraorg.org
-  http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:L:2009:342
-  Science des traitements capillaires. C. Zviak. Ed. Masson 1988.
-  Skin Barrier; Chemistry of Delivery Systems. Allured Publishing 2008. pp 25.
-  Organo functional silicones in personal care. ACS Symposium Series, Volume1148. Pages 39-62 ; 2013.
-  Silicones. Berthiaume, Marianne D. Ed. by Schlossman, Mitchell L. , From Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics (3rd Edition) (2002), 3(Bk. 2), 827-840.
-  Silicones in cosmetics. Berthiaume, Marianne D.  From Cosmetic Science and Technology Series (1999), 22(Principles of Polymer Science and Technology in Cosmetics and Personal Care), 275-324.
-  Scientific papers ;
-  EMA Web Site 
-  ISO Web Site
-  Eudralex Web site:
http://ec.europa.eu/health/files/eudralex/vol-1/dir_2011_62/dir_2011_62_fr.pdf
-  http://orbi.ulg.ac.be

Knowledge of ingredients : fats, surfactants, silicones, perfumes, polymers

Provision of audio Power Point files
Non-exhaustive references:


  • Physicochemical Principles of Pharmacy, AT Flornce and D. Attwood
  • Formulating detergents and personal care products, L. Tai
  • Formulations: in Cosmetics and personal care, T.F. Tadros
  • An introduction to surfactants, T.F. Tadros
 

Substances of natural origin

The ppt slides will be available online.

Assessment methods and criteria

Below you will find information on the evaluation methods planned for in-person and remote exams as well as those planned for hybrid sessions. Depending on how the health crisis evolves, the chosen method will be communicated to you no later than one month before the start of the exam session.

Written exam

Knowledge of ingredients : fats, surfactants, silicones, perfumes, polymers

Any session :

- In-person

written exam ( open-ended questions )

- Remote

written work

- If evaluation in "hybrid"

preferred in-person


Additional information:

Written exam. If the health situation does not allow the written exam in person, the exam will be a written report to send by mail

Substances of natural origin

June session :

- In-person

written exam ( open-ended questions )

- Remote

written work

- If evaluation in "hybrid"

preferred remote

August-september session :

- In-person

written exam ( open-ended questions )

- Remote

oral exam

- If evaluation in "hybrid"

preferred remote


Additional information:

Written exam.

Work placement(s)

Organizational remarks

Organising institution: ULB
Managing Faculty: Pharmacy
Four-month period: premier quadrimestre
Schedule volume: 50 hours
Schedule: available via the following link
https://gehol.ulb.ac.be/gehol/Vue/HoraireCours.php?semaine_unif=2035&cours=PHARJ652

Substances of natural origin

Prof Michel FREDERICH (ULg) and Prof. Caroline STEVIGNY (ULB).

Contacts

Roland Marini (rmarini@ulg.ac.be)
 

Knowledge of ingredients : fats, surfactants, silicones, perfumes, polymers

Géraldine Piel, Chargé de cours  Laboratoire de Technologie Pharmaceutique & Biopharmacie (LTPB) Centre Interdisciplinaire de Recherche sur le Médicament (CIRM)
Université de Liège
CHU Sart-Tilman * Bâtiment B36 (+2)  15 avenue Hippocrate | 4000 Liège | Belgique tel +32 4 366 43 08 geraldine.piel@uliege.be 

Substances of natural origin

ULg: Prof. Michel Frédérich (M.Frederich@ulg.ac.be - +32 4 3664330)