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| Version 2013-2014 |
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| HULG0337-1 | Water waves and sea state models
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| Durée : | 20h Th, 10h Pr |
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| Nombre de crédits : |
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| Nom du professeur : | G. Ducrozet |
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Langue(s) du cours :
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| Langue anglaise |
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Contenus du cours :
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| a) Waves modelling :
Derivation of governing non-linear equations ; introduction of multiple scales method to generate particular subset of equations.
Dispersive waves :
- Airy Potential ; derivation of the solution by separation of variables. Expression of all the related physical quantities : gtoup velocity, energy density, energy flux, ... ; limits of the linear model.
- Higher order Stokes solutions (3rd order, 5th order). Sequential construction of the Stokes higher order solutions. Specific nonlinear features of Stokes waves.
- Stream function model. Explanation of the method - numerical application.
Shallow water (non dispersive) waves :
- Derivation of Boussinesq equation
- The solitary wave as a particular solution of Boussinesq equation
- KdV equations : cnoidal waves
- Introduction to wave refraction & diffraction in coastal areas
b) Statistical models :
- Random sea state modelling
- Usual wave spectra models
- Wave generation
- Random responses of a linear system
- Review of the results for ship responses by a deterministic theroy
- Motions on a real sea state
- Extreme responses, design factors
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Acquis d'apprentissage (objectifs d'apprentissage) du cours :
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| The objective of this series of lectures is to introduce the students to the most important environmental source of loading for the ship structure : sea waves. The lectures are divided into two main parts
First we give an overview os some of the numerous mathematical models used to represent free surface gravity waves, and the associated underlying flow. The scope is voluntarily restricted to the most useful models generally used by naval engineers and researchers. In a few cases, a deeper theoretical insight is presented in order to allow the students to understand the subtleties of water wave theory.
In the second part, the use of the statistical approach is presented, both for the representation of sea states and for the ship's reponse. |
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Prérequis et corequis / Modules de cours optionnels recommandés :
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Activités d'apprentissage prévues et méthodes d'enseignement :
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Mode d'enseignement (présentiel ; enseignement à distance) :
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Lectures recommandées ou obligatoires et notes de cours :
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| "Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers & Scientists (advanced series on ocean engineering)" by R.G. Dean and R.A. Dalrymple. |
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Modalités d'évaluation et critères :
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| Written exam (1h) + report of pratical training |
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Stage(s) :
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Remarques organisationnelles :
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Contacts :
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| G. Ducrozet |
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